Monday, September 26: Part I: Forbidden City

On Monday morning we took the bus to the subway and walked from there to the entrance to Forbidden City.  We had watched The Last Emperor, the first part of which had been filmed there, so it was interesting to see it in real life.  Built in the early 1400s, it was in use by the Ming and Qing Dynasties until the last emperor was evicted in 1924.  The official name now is the Palace Museum; the name 'Forbidden City' comes from the fact that no commoners were allowed to enter it until 1912.  Consisting of close to 1000 mostly wooden buildings and about nine or ten thousand rooms and covering 200 acres of land (a rectangle of ~2,500 feet by ~3,000 feet surrounded completely by a moat) in the heart of Beijing, the vastness is difficult to comprehend even in person. It was designed to be the very center of the walled city and is enclosed in a larger walled area called the Imperial City which is, in turn, enclosed by the Inner City and just north of the Outer City.  Immediately to the south of the Palace Museum is Tian'anmen Square.

Forbidden City, Imperial City, Inner and Outer City

First we found the closest bus stop, a very short walk from our hotel. It was a rather large bus stop with multiple choices of buses.

We took that to the subway and exited close to the north part of Tian'anmen Square.  It is not possible to take public transportation right to the gate of the Forbidden City. Instead we walked from the east side of the square and exited the north gate under the a portrait of Mao Zedong.  

The front part is know as the 'Outer Court' where the emperors held important ceremonies.  The rear part, consisting of four central buildings as well as 6 buildings comprising the East Palace, 6 buildings comprising the West Palace and a large garden in the rear where the emperor spent his leisure hours with the empress or his concubines.  Some of the buildings have been restored to how they would have been originally; others have been turned into museums.  We chose to explore the eastern buildings and some of the central buildings.  It was too much walking to see everything. 

Right inside entrance to Forbidden City

 



The Gate of Supreme Harmony originally named 'Gate for Worshipping Heaven.' Located on an 11 foot high base, the gate has a gable roof and carved overhanging eaves.  It is nine bays wide and four bays deep with an area of about a third of an acre.  It is the most magnificent gate in the Forbidden City. In front of the gate stand the largest pair of bronze lions in the palace which were cast in the Ming Dynasty.  During the Ming Dynasty, the emperors held morning court here and accepted memorials from officials.

 Gate of Supreme Harmony originally named 'Gate for Worshipping Heaven.' Located on an 11 foot high base, the gate has a gable roof and carved overhanging eaves.  It is nine bays wide and four bays deep with an area of about a third of an acre.  It is the most magnificent gate in the Forbidden City. In front of the gate stand the largest pair of bronze lions in the palace which were cast in the Ming Dynasty.  During the Ming Dynasty, the emperoros held morning court here and accepted memorials form officials.

Many of the buildings had titles in them pertaining to the important Chinese theme of peace and harmony, for example the 3 halls of the Outer Court were known as  "Hall of Supreme Harmony" where important ceremonies such as celebrating the emperor's birthday, "Hall of Central Harmony" a spot for the emperor to rest on his way to a ceremony and for officials to kowtow to him. It had gold covered bronze on the roof and 'golden' bricks on the floor, and  "Hall of Preserving Harmony" where rehearsing ceremonies were held.  All three contained thrones although the throne was largest in the Hall of Supreme Harmony.

Roof of Hall of Supreme Harmony

Interior of Hall of Supreme Harmony

The sign outside Hall of Supreme Harmony says:
"As the first and main hall of the three major halls of the outer court of the Forbidden City, Tai He Dian is commonly known as the Hall of Golden Chimes. First constructed in 1420 during the Ming Dynasty, the hall was rebuilt several times after a number of fires caused by lightning. The present Tai He Dian was constructed in 1695. Constructed on a three-tiered white marble base, the hall is 11 bays wide, five bays deep, and 35.05 meters high. With a wudian (thatched hall) style of four fully hipped double roofs, this ancient building has a construction area of 2,377 square meters. The eave corners are decorated with 10 animals, an example of the decoration on China's ancient buildings. The hall is paved with high-quality square clay bricks, commonly known as "golden bricks." The throne is located on the axial line of the Imperial Palace. Above the throne there is a board with an inscription written by Emperor Qian-long, reading "Jian Ji Sui You" (People's Sovereign and Great Plan). The caisson in the center of the ceiling has a carved crouching dragon with a bright pearl (known as a "Xuanyuan Mirror") in its mouth. Arranged around the terrace in front of the hall are a sundial and grain measure---symbols of imperial power, as well as bronze turtles and cranes---symbols of longevity. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, important ceremonies and celebrations were held at Tai He Dian, such as the lunar New Year, the Winter Solstics, the birthday of the emperor, the enthronement of a new emperor, installing an empress, announcing the names of successful candidates in official examinations and sending generals out to battle. The words "Tai He" come from The Book of Changes, meaning "harmonious operation of all things on earth.""

Copper and iron vats were part of the fire fighting equipment in the palace. They were filled with water to douse fires. The oldest vats were cast during the Ming Dynasty--total of 308 vats--some inlaid with gold. Each vat weights 4 tons and can hold 4 tons of water.

Hall of Central Harmony

"First constructed in 1420 during the Ming Dynasty, Zhong He Dian was destroyed and reconstructed several times over the centuries. The existing hall was constructed in 1627 during the Ming Dynasty.
 
In the early Ming Dynasty, this hall was called Hua Gia Dian (Hall of Overwhelming Glory), but was renamed Zhong Ji Dian (Hall of Central Extremity) in 1562, and Zhong He Dian in 1645 during the Qing Dynasty. This square building has a single pyramid-shaped roof, with a gold plated bronze covering. 

The floor is paved with high-quality square clay bricks, commonly known as "golden bricks". A throne is placed in the center of the hall and a board hangs above the throne with inscription written by emperor Qianlong. The inscription reads : "Yun Zhu Jue Zhong", meaning "The Way of heaven is profound and mysterious and the way of mankind is difficult. Only if we make a precise and unified plan and follow the doctrine of the mean, can we rule the country well". 

This hall served as a resting place for the emperor on his way to attend an important ceremony or hold court. Officials kowtowed to the emperor here. The day before the emperor held a sacrificial ceremony he would read the prayer tablet aloud this hall. Before offering sacrifice at the Altar of God of Agriculture, the emperor examined ceremonial farm tools here. After the revision of the imperial pedigree, which was revised ounce every ten years, the emperor read the pedigree out loud and held a grand ceremony at the hall. The word "Zhong He" come from the Book of Rites, meaning "When we handle matters properly and harmoniously without leaning to either side, all things on earth will flourish"."

Interior of Hall of Preserving Harmony

The sign in front of Hall of Preserving Harmony:
"" First constructed in 1420 during the Ming Dynasty, this hall was destroyed by fire and reconstructed several times. It still retains its original beams and columns. In the early Ming Dynasty, it was named Jin Sheng Dian (Hall of Scrupulous Behavior). During the Qing Dynasty in 1562 it was renamed Jian Ji Dian (Hall of the People's Sovereign) and then Bao He Dian in 1645. The hall is nine bays wide, and four bays deep, with a gable roof and carved overhanging eaves. It has an area of 1,240 square meters. The construction of the hall adopted a special "pillar-reduction"method. By omitting six pillars from under the front eaves, the hall is given a spacious feeling. Above the throne, at the center of the hall, hangs a board with an inscription written by Emperor Qianlong. The inscription reads " Huang Jian You Ji" (the Highest Norms for Emperor to Found a Regime)
During the Ming Dynasty, the emperor changed cloths in this hall before an important ceremony. In the Qing Dynasty, the emperor held banquets here for his princes, dukes, and ministers of ethnic minorities on the lunar New Year's Eve and the Lantern Festival. In the early Qing Dynasty, before the renovation of the three rear halls were completed, Emperor Shunzhi and Emperor Kangxi lived here and it was named Wei Yu Gong (Palace of Proper Places and Cultivation of things) and Qing Ning Gong (Palace of Peace and Tranquility), respectively, during their reigns. The wedding ceremony of Emperor Shunzhi was held here. In 1789, the emperor supervised the final stage of examinations to select officials from among scholars from all over the country. The words "Bao He" are from the Book of Changes, and mean "maintaining harmony between all things on earth to have a long period of peace and stability. ""

Behind the Hall of Preserved Harmony in the middle of the staircases is a huge marble sculpture of 9 dragons playing with pearls, the largest stone sculpture in the palace, 55 feet long, 10 feet wide, and 5 feet thick.  It was brought to the palace from Fangshan, about 70 kilometers away.  Apparently a well was dug every 500 meters to pump water on the road in the winter so they could drag the stone on the ice.  Because it was considered holy, anyone who touched it was put to death.  

We walked under the Gate of National Prosperity into the Inner Court and walked into such buildings as the Hall of Benevolence where the concubines used to live.  

This gate was constructed in 1420 during the Ming Dynasty and was renovated in 1655 during the Qing Dynasty. It is one of the gates in the palace leading to the inner court. Along both sides of the gate were offices of Mongolian nobles, nine chief ministers and imperial guards. in the Qing Dynasty, except for officials on duty or those who had ben summoned, princes and officials were not allowed to enter this gate. In order to ensure the safety of the emperor, the guards of princes and officials had to halt 20 paces from the steps.

The Qianlong Emperor in Ceremonial Armor on Horseback from the early 1700s created using ink and color on silk.  Approximately 8 foot wide and 10 foot high.

Gold ewer with court Lady image in enamel: 1736-1795 Qing Dynasty

Gold toothpick and ear pick with gourd pattern and chain

Since we didn't have enough energy to see the rest of the buildings, we went into the Imperial Gardens which m measure 100 feet by 150 feet, covering about 3 acres of land. The Imperial Garden was first constructed in 1420.  It is the oldest and largest garden in Forbidden City. Several-hundred-year-old pines, cypresses and wisteria grow; exotic stones are scattered around as well as more than 20 halls, pavilions and towers in various styles are symmetrically located on the eastern and western sides of the central axi. The paths are paved with colored cobbles in over 900 patterns.  In the Qing Dynasty, girls were selected here for the emperor's harem.

Hill of Accumulated Elegance:  Thirty foot high artificial hill made of rocks piled on the original site of Hall of Appreciating Flowers against the northern palace wall.  On the top stands the Pavilion of Imperial Scenery which is reached by a path.  At the Double Ninth Festival every year, the emperors  empresses and Imperial concubines climbed the hill along the path. Halfway up the hill, there is a brick cave running from east to west. A cave at the foot of the hill has an arched roof, with a stone caisson carved in the shape of a dragon. Halfway up the hill are bronze jars to store water. When water runs from the hill, it spurts out of the dragon heads on the backs of lions on the left and right sides of the hill.

Exit

Moat on outside of Forbidden City