09 July 2011

Saturday, 9 July: Wroclaw I

In the morning we went back downtown past a building, possibly a University library, used by Hitler during WWII,  and over the oldest bridge in the city c. 1850 to Sand Island. All of the buildings on Sand Island have religious significance from the Orthodox church to the monastery to the Protestant seminary where Ted had worked for a number of year.  Everything on the island is at least 300 years old.  St. Mary’s Church is from the 1300s; the convent is at least 400 years old.
We walked inside St. Mary on the Sands church which had a cool door.  Immediately inside on the right was a chapel honoring the deaf and blind, the moving nativity with all kinds of toys, noises and motions.  A copy of the black Madonna hung on the wall.  Apparently the  Swedish Horde stole original from  Czestochowa.  The further away they got, the heavier it got, so eventually they slashed her cheek in anger and abandoned it. Now it's the center ofMary worship.  The original is brought out very infrequently, but many copies remain.
In front of St Mary’s Church is a statue of Kardinal Boleslaw Kominek written in German which translates “ We forgive and ask your forgiveness.”  This is from a letter to German bishops sent in 1965 concerning crimes in World War II.  

After this we crossed Tumski Bridge to Tumski Island, which ceased to be an island in 1810 when the river on the north side was filled in.  Tumski Bridge, like many bridges in Moscow, was lined with locks.  The difference is that these had names and dates of the married couples on them.   On one side of the former island is St.  John the Baptist Cathedral, the main cathedral.  On the other side is St. Martin’s Chapel, the only part left of a former castle. In between are several large churches.

St Peter and Paul's Church is a Gothic Church  built in 2 stages beginning in about 1400.  The Church of Holy cross and St.Bartholomew is 2 churches together to satisfy both church and state.The  biggest church in the city, it was hardly damaged during war.  The bishop wanted the Holy Cross name while the secular leader wanted St. Bartholomew (now a  Ukrainian Catholic Church.)  They compromised by building two churches in the same building.  The secular one is in the basement (the white door way towards the left).  Outside of St. Peter and Paul church is a statue of St John Nepomuk   sculpted by Urbanski. It contains a bald cherubim.  St. John Nepomuk is considered the patron saint of bridges.  The story is that he was the Queen’s confessor.  The king asked St. John to tell him what the queen confessed, and then threw St. John off the bridge when he refused to tell.  A sign right outside the door said that Copernicus had visited the church.  Inside the church:

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